Every guidebook that you will read about Buenos Aires shares certain similarities about “top” recommendations of things to see and do, such as touring the Casa Rosada, visiting Recoleta Cemetery, watching tango at Cafe Tortoni and shopping along Calle Florida. While these attractions are certainly worth a visit, if you really want to have a very unique and memorable experience while visiting Buenos Aires, take an excursion just outside the city, off the beaten path, to visit the Lujan Zoo.

Located about 58 kilometers from Buenos Aires, the Lujan Zoo is reachable by bus from Plaza Italia. The trip takes about an hour and a half in a comfortable, air-conditioned coach with reclining seats. As of June 2011, round-trip transportation to Lujan costs $20 pesos. At Plaza Italia, there is a small kiosk outside the Sociedad Rural Argentina on Avenida Sarmiento where you can purchase tickets for the bus #57. Make sure you get on the right bus, because there are several #57′s with different routes. You’ll need to let the driver know, and remind him, that you are going to the Lujan Zoo.

When you get dropped off on the side of the highway, don’t panic. You’re in the right place. Just cross under the overpass and look for the zoo sign. Upon arrival at the Lujan Zoo, you might be excused for thinking you’ve come all this way and paid $50 pesos to experience what might appear to be nothing more than a petting zoo. But the truckload of freshly-butchered horse meat passing by will make you start asking yourself questions. Rather than the standard miniature horses and timid domesticated animals you might expect, at Lujan you’ll get up close and personal with carnivorous lions, tigers and pumas, not to mention camels and elephants.

The monkeys go about their day and survey the human onlookers with disinterest. After performing for many years in the circus, the Lujan Zoo is now home to the monkeys and other retired animal performers. While in the United States elderly actors and actresses retire to the Lillian Booth Actors Home in New Jersey, it appears that retired circus performers in Argentina live out their golden years at Lujan.

Dogs or Drugs?

While the animals that wander around freely (ducks, peacocks, geese) could entertain young children for hours, older kids, teenagers and the young in us all might be curious about the many animal cages spread throughout the zoo. Rather than merely looking into cages, visitors to the zoo can actually enter some of the cages in small groups to interact with the animals. You may think it crazy to enter a cage with a fully grown tiger unless it’s drugged or chained up, but the zoo’s caretakers will explain how man’s best friend lends a helping paw.

One of the first cages nearest the entrance is inhabited by lion cubs as well as dogs. For the first few months, the lion cubs will learn obedience training and other important behavior from the domesticated dogs. The dogs will help the lion cubs learn to be more docile in this setting where they will interact with humans. The caretakers do not, however, explain why some of the lion cubs seem so “sleepy” that they need to be shaken awake for photo-ops. Suspicious.

At present there are several lion cages that you can enter, with lions grouped and separated by age. It’s interesting to see how their personalities and behavior develop. Prior to entering any of the cages, visitors are instructed not to make fast, sudden movements or excite the animals in any way. Young children may enter the cage with dogs and cubs with adult supervision, but they’re not permitted to enter the cage with the adult lions. You are invited to cuddle and pet and stroke the cubs and lions, being careful not to go near their heads, and may even be presented with a bottle of milk to nurse one of the most beautiful, majestic and awe-inspiring creatures on earth.

If you go to Lujan on a school day, or in the off-season (May through October), you might easily be able to spend 10-15 minutes in each cage, communing with creatures nearly as beautiful as Michelle Pfeiffer. If you can tear yourself away from the lions and tigers, you will find other cages with pumas, llamas, deer, ostrich, seals, elephants, camels and even twin grizzly bears.

While words cannot effectively describe the Lujan Zoo, even pictures do not do it justice. It is simply something that must be experienced to fully appreciate. And upon your return to “la vida loca” in Buenos Aires, the wildlife at the Lujan Zoo might actually seem tame in comparison.

Website (in Spanish)

 
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